Generator

Merlin told me that he had successfully produced colloidal silver with DC voltages ranging from 5-130 volts. Therefore, in an emergency situation, you only need a single 9 volt battery (Mallory MN 1604) and 2 pieces of pure silver wire to make colloidal silver. Everything else mentioned in this section on generator construction is useful and convenient, but not essential.

A typical generator uses three 9 volt batteries hooked up in series because it works well, it’s convenient, and provides a high enough voltage that allows the reaction to take place in a reasonable span of time (lower voltages would require more time to make an equivalent batch of colloidal silver. Higher voltages work too, but you get a more rapid buildup of the silver oxide on the positive anode, and somewhat larger particles). In a pinch, you could connect your batteries with ordinary hookup wire, but using three of those snap-on caps with wire pigtails designed for 9 volt batteries is much easier (Philmore Battery Connect, 3" Leads-9V. Flat, No. BC9). You can buy a package of 5 snap-on battery connects with wire leads at any electronic store for a buck. The red wire coming off the snap-on is connected to the positive terminal of the battery and the black wire is negative. For convenience, we’ll label our batteries A, B, and C.

The simplest (and cheapest) set up is as follows, resulting in a circuit configuration that looks like figure 1:

1. Connect the red and black wires of the three snap-on caps as follows: after stripping off a ¼” of insulation, take the red wire from battery A’s snap-on and connect it with the black wire from battery B’s snap-on (twist and solder together).
2. Take the red wire from B’s snap-on and connect it to the black wire of battery C’s snap-on.
3. Finally, take a pair of wires (approx. 20 - 24 gauge stranded copper) and connect one end to the black wire of battery A’s snap-on.
4. The opposite end of this wire is either soldered or alligator clipped to one of the silver electrodes.
5. Do the same with the remaining wire, connecting it to the red wire of battery C’s snap on (see figure 1) and attaching the opposite end to the remaining silver electrode.
6. After you place the electrodes in a glass of heated distilled water, you will have a complete circuit which will allow electrons to flow from the negative terminal of battery A to the positive terminal of battery C and set the electrolysis in motion.

A more sophisticated generator design could include the following:

1. A SPST (Single Pole, Single Throw) tiny (on/off) toggle switch (Augat Inc part #70001)
2. A small 24volt, 40mA sub-miniature incandescent ‘grain of wheat’ indicator lamp to help indicate the amount of current flow and condition of the batteries (Precision Lamp, Inc part #10238)
3. A ‘mini’ mono plug and jack (2.5mm or 3.5mm) for plug-in electrode convenience (Switchcraft Audio Connectors: 2.5mm “Mini-Plug” part # 850, 2.5mm chassis mount “Mini-Jack” part #800, 3.5mm Phone Plug part #750, 3.5mm chassis mount Phone Jack part #650)
4. A DPDT (Double Pole, Double Throw) miniature flat toggle switch (Augat Inc part #75003-AG) used to reverse electrical polarity to the electrodes (optional).
5. A 2¼” x 4 ” x 1 ” plastic ‘project’ box to house everything.

(For those who tinker with electronics, you could always add more bells and whistles like an a/c adapter, low battery voltage indicator, current limiting circuitry, etc.)

This information is for educational purposes only and is not to be construed as medical advice. Consult the physician of your choice for medical care and advice.

Offered by Ed

Graphic by Joe.